The load/light should be able to go from there to anywhere you want it placed. So long as the neutral and line is connected to make the sensor itself work, The motion sensor on the light I am using has three wires Load, Line, and neutral. However, I look at the motion sensor as basically a make/break switch that "does not" have to be in the same location as the light that it controls, but should be able to be located just about anywhere in the circuit. It has been several decades since basic electronics for me, but it seems that there was some type of diode that could be placed in a circuit that would block electron flow in one direction, but allow flow in the opposite direction. No, I didn't separate the sensor from the light that it came with, only wired a second light in parallel with the main one controlled by the sensor, and placed the three way switch as shown.Īnd you are right, neither of my configurations would provide the separation you desire. Just be certain that you run a new line from the hot leg of the first three way, and not a new line from your breaker box. The motion detector will turn on all three lights.Įither three way will turn on all three lights, or turn them off with a delay similar to that which is normal for the motion detector. The blue and yellow wires are new wires, blue from hot on the switch, yellow represents white. In the second diagram, the Black, red and grey wires are the existing wires on your lights, not including ground, or at least what I picture them to be. I have not yet had any problems with it, if I turn it on, it will remain on for about five minutes after I turn it off, just as it would if it was the motion detector that turned it on. The motion detector is also a light sensor. With the three way in the other position, the lights come on only at night when motion is detected. With the three way switch in the on position, both lights are on. The first diagram is what I installed at my place about five years ago. Are you saying I could get a bigger box and have the relay fit inside it? That sounds like an undesirable alternative where the box and relay are surface mounted. The RIB relays that I have found look like they are designed with a nipple to mount on the outside of a box (e.g., RIBU1C). I still have a concern about a relay activated for long periods of time when in an enclosed box. My tendency is to activate the relay from the sensor because the relay will be actuated less frequently and for shorter periods of time. That allows me to have the relay activated by either the sensor or the existing lights. The sensor will be in a different place (and box). Unlike your diagram, I don't have a single unit with both sensor and lights. Once that "clicked" everything was clear. Until you pointed it out I did not realize that the circles in your diagram represented the relay coils (DOH!). Now I am back opening wiring boxes, removing some wallboard, and trying to reconcile the simplicity of paper schematics with the realities of pulled wires. I put the project on hold for the summer. I got further into checking the existing wiring and found things I did not understand. Whoops! I thought I had posted a "thank you" back in June, but I don't see it. I don't know much about available devices and, as you can see, about the terminology used in residential wiring. I am hoping that someone would know of a device or devices that would simplify this. I would need to build (get?) some large box to enclose it all safely. My problem is that these relays and their sockets are really not designed for residential wiring. Most of the outdoor light sensors look like they would not have a problem with the 120V coil as their load. I can find a 1PDT relay activated switches with a 24v coil or a 120v coil (e.g., the 750-3C-120A from ). The new lights would then be on when the sensor was activated and the same as the existing lights when it was not.Ī separate pair would power the motion sensor. The terminal for circuit-closed-when-not-activated wire would go to the switched-hot wire of the existing lights. The terminal for circuit-closed-when-activated wire would go to an "always live" hot wire. The "common" (not sure what you call it) lead would connect to the new light's switched-hot wire. One method would be to have a motion sensor activate a 1PDT switch. I have lots of wire and am expecting a more complicated circuit. Your assumption that I don't have "always live" power is not correct. Your understanding of my desire is correct.
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